Mount Everest, also known in Nepal as Sagarmāthā
and in Tibet as Chomolungma, is Earth's highest mountain. It is located
in the Mahalangur mountain range in Nepal. Its peak is 8,848 metres
(29,029 ft) above sea level. It is not the furthest summit from the
centre of the Earth. That honour goes to Mount Chimborazo, in the
Andes.[10] The international border between China and Nepal runs across
Everest's precise summit point. Its massif includes neighbouring peaks
Lhotse, 8,516 m (27,940 ft); Nuptse, 7,855 m (25,771 ft) and Changtse,
7,580 m (24,870 ft).
In 1856, the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India established the
first published height of Everest, then known as Peak XV, at 29,002 ft
(8,840 m). The current official height of 8,848 m (29,029 ft) as
recognised by China and Nepal was established by a 1955 Indian survey
and subsequently confirmed by a Chinese survey in 1975. In 1865, Everest
was given its official English name by the Royal Geographical Society
upon a recommendation by Andrew Waugh, the British Surveyor General of
India. Waugh named the mountain after his predecessor in the post, Sir
George Everest, arguing that there were many local names, against the
opinion of Everest.
Mount Everest attracts many highly experienced mountaineers as well
as capable climbers willing to hire professional guides. There are two
main climbing routes, one approaching the summit from the southeast in
Nepal (known as the standard route) and the other from the north in
Tibet. While not posing substantial technical climbing challenges on the
standard route, Everest presents dangers such as altitude sickness,
weather, wind as well as significant objective hazards from avalanches
and the Khumbu Icefall.
The first recorded efforts to reach Everest's summit were made by
British mountaineers. With Nepal not allowing foreigners into the
country at the time, the British made several attempts on the north
ridge route from the Tibetan side. After the first reconnaissance
expedition by the British in 1921 reached 7,000 m (22,970 ft) on the
North Col, the 1922 expedition pushed the North ridge route up to 8,320 m
(27,300 ft) marking the first time a human had climbed above 8,000 m
(26,247 ft). Tragedy struck on the descent from the North col when seven
porters were killed in an avalanche. The 1924 expedition resulted in
the greatest mystery on Everest to this day: George Mallory and Andrew
Irvine made a final summit attempt on June 8 but never returned,
sparking debate as to whether they were the first to reach the top. They
had been spotted high on the mountain that day but disappeared in the
clouds, never to be seen again, until Mallory's body was found in 1999
at 8,155 m (26,755 ft) on the North face. Tenzing Norgay and Edmund
Hillary made the first official ascent of Everest in 1953 using the
southeast ridge route. Tenzing had reached 8,595 m (28,199 ft) the
previous year as a member of the 1952 Swiss expedition.
In 1802, the British began the Great Trigonometric Survey of India to
determine the location and names of the world's highest mountains.
Starting in southern India, the survey teams moved northward using giant
theodolites, each weighing 500 kg (1,100 lb) and requiring 12 men to
carry, to measure heights as accurately as possible. They reached the
Himalayan foothills by the 1830s, but Nepal was unwilling to allow the
British to enter the country because of suspicions of political
aggression and possible annexation. Several requests by the surveyors to
enter Nepal were turned down.[12]
The British were forced to continue their observations from Terai, a
region south of Nepal which is parallel to the Himalayas. Conditions in
Terai were difficult because of torrential rains and malaria. Three
survey officers died from malaria while two others had to retire because
of failing health.
Discovery
Nonetheless, in 1847, the British continued the Great Trigonometric
survey and began detailed observations of the Himalayan peaks from
observation stations up to 240 km (150 mi) away. Weather restricted work
to the last three months of the year. In November 1847, Andrew Waugh,
the British Surveyor General of India made several observations from the
Sawajpore station located in the eastern end of the Himalayas.
Kangchenjunga was then considered the highest peak in the world, and
with interest he noted a peak beyond it, about 230 km (140 mi) away.
John Armstrong, one of Waugh's officials, also saw the peak from a
location farther west and called it peak "b". Waugh would later write
that the observations indicated that peak "b" was higher than
Kangchenjunga, but given the great distance of the observations, closer
observations were required for verification. The following year, Waugh
sent a survey official back to Terai to make closer observations of peak
"b", but clouds thwarted all attempts.
In 1849, Waugh dispatched James Nicolson to the area, who made two
observations from Jirol, 190 km (120 mi) away. Nicolson then took the
largest theodolite and headed east, obtaining over 30 observations from
five different locations, with the closest being 174 km (108 mi) from
the peak.
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